ELLE spoke with Mariana Guerrero, costume designer for Unstoppable (Netflix Original Serie) and she told us about the references behind each character.
How does a woman who works in the fashion industry dress? What's the difference with a girl from Las Lomas (Fancy neighborhood in Mexico City) ? What is the style of a feminist? Representing them, without stereotyping them, was the challenge of Mariana Guerrero, costume designer of Desenfrenadas to dress Tessa Ia (Vera), Bárbara López (Rocío), Lucía Uribe (Carlota) and Coty Camacho (Marcela) in the new Netflix production.
We talked with Mariana about the inspiration behind the looks of each character and this is what she told us
VERA (TESSA ÍA)
ELLE: What is the accessory or piece that best defines it?
MG: Without a doubt her accessories mark her on different levels, for example her rings and necklaces. As the character evolves, it detaches from these layers, so they also reflect its inner journey.
The necklace he has with his name is his statement piece . Each one can give it a different meaning and I am intrigued to know how the public will interpret it, but it is certainly something that never takes away and is very powerful for her. We all have something like that, something that defines you, is part of you and always goes with you.
ELLE: How would you say he adapts his style to beach looks?
I think she never adapts, she simply complements her look with what she finds. For example, in Oaxaca they all wear huipiles, but we always knew that Vera was going to choose EL HUIPIL, the most fashionable option.
ROCIO (BÁRBARA LÓPEZ)
ELLE: Rocío is the most "discreet" style character, how did you manage to put a fun side on it?
MG: There are people who describe Rocío as “ñoña” but the truth is much more three-dimensional than that. She is an introverted girl looking for comfort and being comfortable in her own skin . Achieving that exact combination cost me a lot. His fun side manifests itself when the road trip begins and as he frees himself from the expectations of others.
ELLE: How do you think Rocío expresses the evolution of her character through clothing?
MG: It was quite a process that I talked a lot with Diego. For example, she starts with a blue Lacoste dress (which is one of my favorite pieces) but it is a dress imposed by her mother in which she is not herself. Little by little she begins to make decisions, to take risks and that manifests itself in her look. It is released. Even in the second half of the series she wears clothes borrowed from Vera.
ELLE: What is the key piece of Rocío?
The bracelet that belonged to her sister Sofía and that never takes off.
CARLOTA (LUCÍA URIBE)
ELLE: Who was the reference / inspiration behind Carlota's looks? Is there something about Hannah Horvath?
MG: The truth is that I love Girls and I love the character of Hanna, but in New York, where I have been living for 13 years, every day you see thousands of girls like Carlota walking the streets of Brooklyn and Manhattan. So yeah, it's Hannah but it's all the others too .
I always saw her as a free and creative spirit. Her look is very authentic in the sense that it changes depending on how she feels every day and is inspired by a certain 90's nostalgia, she is very artsy and colorful, sometimes almost like a little girl.
ELLE: Although she is apparently carefree about fashion, each look ends up being statement, what do you think is the intention that Carlota gives to the clothes?
MG: It was very interesting to play with Carlota's contradictions. On the one hand, she is a girl who sometimes seems to wear the first thing she finds, but she is also a feminist who wants to give a concrete impression of empowerment . We had a lot of fun options to match, but I think it was super defined with those light neurotic touches.
ELLE: What is the missing piece in Carlota's closet?
Her tuk shoes, purple jacket and sunflower bra.
MARCELA (COTY CAMACHO)
ELLE: Marcela comes from a completely different context than the rest, was this a challenge when planning your looks?
MG: Marcela's look was very inspired by 90s skateboarder fashion and by artists such as Dr. Lakra, Amy Winehouse and Selena . I started from some elements of the Chicano wardrobe but I was modifying them and working with Diego. For example, there is a super iconic blouse with a virgin that was designed by @salinamujerista, who also became an inspiration to shape the character.
ELLE: How do you change the clothes Marcela wears after living with them?
Marcela is the one who least changes her look because I always felt that she is the most real of all, or the one with the fewest layers around her. It is very safe, without masks and super transparent.
ELLE: How do you define your style?
MG: Sexy Bad Ass Bitch!
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ELLE: What were your references for Vera's looks as a fashion editor?
Mariana Guerrero (MG): Vera wants to be an editor and she believes that they are going to give her that job but she does not get it, right there her journey and transformation begins. For her, I was inspired by Dakota Fanning's character in The Runaways because I feel they share attributes of rebellion and femininity . In fact, I designed Vera's super iconic yellow pants from a scene in the film where the character Fanning comes out doing a performance.
ELLE: Why do you love chokers and harnesses?
MG: I really admire designer Zanabayne and I felt it was a way of giving my character something of my world. It also works very well with the inspiration I had from 70's rock, but with a feminine and contemporary touch.